It had been a difficult two weeks. My uncle, Gerome, was going home in a coffin. It was days away from his 61stbirthday. I was in shock. I had no idea what to do. Luckily the US Embassy in Moscow knew exactly what to do. They made all the arrangements and because he was a diplomat, many corners were cut. I knew I had to get a small packet out and figured the best way to do that was to have it on his person. It was harrowing to sneak it into the coffin, but I was able to bribe a Marine (who knew you could do that!) and accomplished the mission. It didn’t help my nerves, though. I pretty much held my breath from embassy to airport to airplane to landing. I had been on a steep learning curve ever since arriving in Moscow one year earlier.
I find it hard to write about my time in Russia. I try to block it out most of the time. I don’t want to remember. I start to write and my mind drifts. A slide show of all the people and moments of being very uncomfortable. Moments of anxiety. But I need to tell you my story. I think it is important.
My uncle, Gerome, was a career State Department Employee on his final assignment in Moscow, Russia. Not sure why that was his final gig. It seemed to me if you had been doing it for as long as he had, they would have rewarded him with a spot in Paris or Fiji. But Moscow it was. Maybe because it was the 1990’s and Moscow was the place to be. The Soviet Union had fallen apart at the end of 1991 and Russia was wide open. History in the making. Anything was possible.
Gerome was my father’s oldest brother. Even though they were ten years apart, they were still close. Growing up on a farm in Iowa, they were comfortable with having guns around and shooting. As a teen Gerome shot rabbits and sold their pelts for a penny or two. His mother often sent him out to kill a chicken for dinner. I never saw him eat chicken. He started driving and delivering fresh milk at fourteen. He didn’t drink milk either. He always dreamed of traveling. Getting away. He was quiet and introspective. A loner. Hard to pin down. Easy to get along with. Levelheaded. But friendly none the less. And smart. Tall and thin, dark hair and piercing blue eyes. Nice looking. Never married. Not gay. More of a ladies’ man. He had causal relationships. Although he was a career diplomat, he was not a manager or a director. His career seemed to stall along the way. He didn’t really rise through the ranks, he just kind of floated along at the same level. He didn’t seem to mind. He seemed to be happy with what he was doing. Whatever that was. It was always kind of vague. He had lived all over the world.
This was his second assignment to Russia/Soviet Union. He was fluent in Russian. Posted to Moscow in the 70’s, he never talked about those days other than to say, “things have changed but things have not changed”. It was his favorite phrase.
I was wasting away at a dead-end government job working for the National Furniture Center in Washington, DC. We were shipping desks to military personnel in Iraq. I needed a change. I talked Gerome into getting me a visa for three months so I could go soak up a new culture, a new world. I was dreaming of launching my new writing career. I figured if nothing else, it would give me something to write about. I don’t think he was thrilled at the prospect of having a thirty-two-year-old taking up space around him. A girl who didn’t speak a word of Russian. He must of have been nuts to agree to it. But he did.
I had visited him when he was living in Africa and then I had done some traveling on my own so I wasn’t completely green. I had some international experience and spoke Spanish and French. I just needed to catch up on my Russian language and history. How hard could it be? I was very naïve and presumptuous. Had I known what was in store for me, I might have thought twice about the whole thing.
The plan was to arrive in time for Gerome’s 60th birthday. I would help him celebrate and hopefully give him something to think about other than his aging self. Of course, I didn’t know him very well. Turns out he had plenty to think about.
I arrived in mid-June 1993. It was hot. I don’t really sweat much, but I was evolving. My clothes were sticking to me. All my bulges were showing through my cotton shirt. My pants were wet. My hair was sticking out. Wet. Ugh. How does it get so hot? This wasn’t Africa. This wasn’t the jungle. This was an un-airconditioned airport in Europe. Well, kind of in Europe. And it was awful.
I slogged past surly looking customs officials through the double doors where I was greeted by Gerome, and his car and driver. After a harrowing ride with all windows wide open we arrived at the security gate in front of Gerome’s apartment building. The Soviets provided compounds for foreigners. There was a gate with a security official who checked everybody into the parking lot. These were mostly for diplomats, but they included journalists as well. The apartment buildings were built in blocks. Each block had several entrances. Big, tall concrete prefab monstrosities. Ugly.
Gerome had been assigned a two-bedroom apartment that was fairly nice. It wasn’t horrible. It was adequate. At least I had my own room. It was small, though. And hot. The windows that actually opened were small and had no screens. The heat just lingered. No movement. My only consolation was that we were on the 55th parallel north in latitude and more or less even with Vancouver, Canada so I imagined it couldn’t possibly stay this hot for long. In fact, I sat in the kitchen two weeks later and watched it briefly snow. Welcome to Russia.
This is a work of fiction based on my time in Russia in the 1990’s. Check out my memoir, Echoes of a Global Life.
Adia was born in Kenya of a white American archeologist mother and a white Kenyan absent father. She spent her early childhood in a Masai village raised by a barren African Masai woman. From there she went to school in Nairobi where her mother was going through the motions of educating her child but not really paying much attention to her. Adia was that girl who stayed in one place and all her classmates came and went. She was odd. After her grandmother appeared on the scene, Adia ended up in boarding school in her passport country. Her grandparents always wanted her to “come home” but their home was never hers. Boarding school had its own challenges of fitting in with a culture she knew nothing about.
Grace was also born in Kenya, but her parents moved around. Her father worked for the State Department. Her mother had been an aid worker in Kenya but had a traumatic experience and found consolation from an Embassy man. Her future husband. Grace and her parents bounced from the USA to several other African countries before returning to Nairobi where she met Adia. Grace was fed up with moving around and Adia was like nobody she had met before. Grace was tired of the in-between life of the expats. She loved that Adia was so comfortable in her environment.
I love the way this book weaves in the different aspects of Third Culture Kids. It touches on having strong ties to one culture when the parents and grandparents are not part of that culture. The pull of family. The possibility of a different kind of family. Immersing in culture. And living on the edges of culture. It also goes into how people adapt to pain and grief and, of course, change.
I really appreciated and enjoyed this book. I could really relate to it.
I recently read a couple of books on the Lost Generation. Gertrude Stein An Afterlife by Francesca Wade was excellent. If you are a Gertrude fan, like I am. This book covers her life but also tells us what happened after her death. Where all her writing went, what happened to Alice. Gertrude was pretty much a nut but she had a very interesting life. I found out that in December 1970, long after she and most of her family were dead, the MOMA in New York City put on an exhibit of all the paintings they purchased. They were able to gather them up from various owners around the world and put on a show called Four Americans in Paris featuring the collected art purchased by Gertrude, her brothers Leo and Michael and Michael’s wife, Sarah.
Gertrude and her two brothers, Leo and Michael
I managed to find the brochure from the MOMA website. The exhibit is impressive with about 100 Picasso’s alone, along with Matisse, Manet, Laurencin, Gris, Cezanne and many others.
I also read The Paris Wife by Paula McLain. It is a novel based on Hemingway’s first wife, Hadley Richardson. Of course Gertrude is in it as well as Fitzgerald, Pound and others. It was an easy and interesting read. I learned a lot about Hemingway and the others. I got the impression that Hadley was his one and only true love. It made me want to learn more about Hemingway. He was another character.
I read one other book that had nothing to do with Paris. It came with all kinds of recommendations from celebrities and is on lots of “lists”. This Is How It Always Is by Laurie Frankel. It is a novel about a family with five boys except the youngest wants to be a girl. To be honest I thought this book was pretty ridiculous. But since it was presented as a novel, I read the whole thing. What topped it off for me was the Author’s Note at the end where the author spends three pages telling us about her transgender child and that this book has nothing to do with her personal story. Why? Who cares? There is no way I could ever believe this story was true. It was totally unrealistic. No reason to tell me it was not true and no reason to spend three pages doing it. Ugh.
Yes, the subject is real but the way this family handled it was truly unbelievable. My opinion.
Postcard: Yoruba Coronation Cloth (detail)– Nigeria. To benefit UNICEF.Igu Mask, Nigeria
Paris, March 1973 We are on our way to Amsterdam. I’ll take KLM to Chicago, Bill to Frankfort and Lagos. The Paris weather has been cold but clear and sunny – lovely. I walked miles to know Paris a little better. Had lunch with Zina yesterday – she says Lisa is very unhappy here – she’s going to US for Easter. Do keep warm, for that helps to recover and prevent colds. Love to you, Mom
1985. NIGERIA The most populous single African nation on the continent of Africa, lies on the west coast and has a rich tradition and culture closely connected with her religious beliefs and the rites and practices relating to them. Traditional religion has given the people a heritage of culture and tradition which is still noticeable despite later influence by Isalm and Christianity. The agriculture, music, art, craft, language and economies of the country still bear traces of this influence.
Ibadan, Nigeria
Premier Hotel, Ibadan, Nigeria
Tinubu Square and Central Lagos
December 1973 T & J got here about 4 hours late but happy and not too tired. We are gradually hearing about their trip to Europe, their life in Australia. You can see Bill’s office at the top right of the photo. Hope you are well, Love, Dede
Our first day in Auckland, we met my friends Louise and her sister Barbara for breakfast. I met Louise and Barbara and their family when I was living in Mexico. We went to grade school together. I hadn’t seen them for over 50 years. It didn’t matter. We had a wonderful reunion. Lots of fun. Their family owns two restaurants in Auckland – San Ray and Cazador. We ate at San Ray and it was fabulous.
From there we went to the War Museum which is more of a science and history museum. Interesting place, but unfortunately much of it was closed. Then on to the Art Gallery with was wonderful. Lots of impressionists. An exhibit of Louise Bourgeois – including a film of her being interviewed. A very interesting character. Saw some New Zealand artists as well.
A very civilized place…
The next day we took the 40 minute ferry to Waiheke Island. The island is known for its wineries. We opted for the hop-on-hop-off bus that gave us a tour of the whole island. Beautiful views and countryside. Lots of holiday houses. We at lunch with a view of the sea.
In case you can’t tell — I’m the one in the striped shirt on the patio and I think that is Virginia (?) I’m helping with breakfast!
Love, Bill
Puerto Rico, Jan 2003
Can’t say I have actually seen this view but hey are all lovely, in the warmth and sunshine. Almost time for the wine and cheese hour and then dinner. Tomorrow lunch with Supreme Court Staff and the office reception.
Love, Tim
Sainte-Luce Village
Meilleurs son venirs de la Mar-tinique.
Barbados, 3/25/69
We arrived here this am a bit sunburned but that will pass. Tom is sitting in the shade by the pool while I am off to work.
Love, Bill
The new Barbados Hilton, built on the site of Ft. Charles, has 158 charming guest rooms, garden cottages, and suites. Situated on this spectacular beach-front site, the hotel recaptures the old fort’s flavor through its native coral limestone structure and colonnaded courts. It is truly a hotel designed for those who appreciate and are at home with the finest.
Sheraton – Kingston Hotel
This is a popular place, I have three postcards like this one.
January 1968 Arrived OK and met with Hardin and others tonight. Disorganization rules but perhaps all will be ok. See you soon. Love, Bill
September 1968 We finally landed 1/2 hr. late last night – then to a nice small dinner party where they had a 3 week old baby boy. I’m going to Dr. with his parents for a check this am, then to their house for lunch. The weather is beautiful. Pool looks great! Love, Va
January 1969 Had a nice flight over. That is really the way to come. Hans is here and we will have dinner tonight at Jim & Suzy’s. It is warm and delightful here. I’m going for a swim now!! Love, Bill
March 2001
I have returned to Ithaca (& we got upgraded to 1st class on one of the flights, which was lovely!) – it is cold and snowy. It rained and was windy the first 2.5 days of our trip which was hard especially for Dave, since the fishing was very bad. We were watching the weather channel religiously. Then we had lovely weather the last 2.5 days and were staying at an incredible resort/casino/waterpark/outdoor aquarium – so we had plenty of fish to see, and enough sun to tan and play in the ocean. All of the buildings were cement, but painted lovely colors. I hope you are both well.
Much love, Allie
Vibrant color, Bahamian shutters, and tropical flora create a palette of color that is pleasure to the eye and soul. Photo by Linda M. Huber
I have yet to see anyone doing any of these things, but we haven’t had too much time to just wander… We have gone to an authentic Bahamian dinner at a nearby bar, and also have gone horseback riding. It has been a very fun trip so far, with only a few rainy days. I have seen many beautiful flowers, birds and coral. Hope all is well…
Love, Valerie
Left: A local wood carver hard at work. Center: Making a model boat out of shells. Right: Palm fronds are stripped and dried before platting, to make straw articles for the famous Bahamian straw market.
Grand Cayman, November 1996
Been here – done this now! Good trip – real warm. Did I have to say that? Bus ready to leave – please share with Jean.
Aloha, Kay
St Maarten, Netherland Antilles, 1965
Port of Spain, Trinidad, West Indies
Puerto Rico, November 1968
All goes well – not exciting and I’m glad I decided to go to Tobago rather than stay for all of conf. Weather is good – Suzy here with Jim but not Jaime – see you Fri.
Love, Bill
El Morro Castle, one of the oldest Spanish fortresses in the New World
Hi – This is a lovely little city with Roman ruins thru-out. This amphitheater is sometimes used for concerts even now! I actually was on the Mt. today where Moses saw the Holy land and is buried. Saw the Dead Sea, almost to Jerusalem. It is cold. 3 degrees C. when we landed. But warm in the sun. We go on an agriculture tour tomorrow to Jordan River valley, then leave on Sun. – me to Haag, B to Kenya and Malawi. Great Trip! — Love, Va.
Mt. Nebo-Siyagha. The basin of the Baptistry in the Memorial of Moses
The Hague, Feb, 1982
Hi
This is one of the many mosaics beautifully preserved in Jordan. Twas good visiting with you last week, hope the snow is abating. Yesterday the 2 Alicias and I went up north of Amsterdam to the Frisian Floral Fair and it was just fantastic. This whole building filled with flowers — mostly bulbs (tulips, crocus, daffodils) in every color of the rainbow (even black tulips!). We bought some sprouted bulbs to plant in pots inside which should bloom in 6 wks — we hope! Bill is due on Tuesday, we go to the St Martins in the Field concert in Amsterdam that nite. It is still hold here.
Love, Va
El Hussein Mosque
February, 1982
Hi
I’ve just come from the top of the Mt. where Moses was buried and saw the Dead Sea from there. I’ve got to read my bible when I get home!! Such a nice young college prof. has been “sightseeing” me and I’ve learned much from her. It is a lovely little city with an almost perfect climate (tho a bit chilly this morn.) built on hills with terrific views. I go home on Sun., Bill to Africa.
The New Otani 10-acre Classical Japanese Garden Tokyo, Japan
The Imperial Hotel, Tokyo
The Imperial Hotel, built by Frank Loyd Wright, opened in 1923. It was demolished in 1968 and replaced by a high rise structure. My family stayed there in 1959, when we were on our way from Burma to the United States.
This postcard was written to my grandmother from some friends of hers traveling in Asia in August, 1961. I think the stamp is pretty cool.
I arrived here in this fabulous city of Tokyo after very pleasant jet air rides (without incident). Bob and I are enjoying our visit here very much and we’ll fly on to Taiwan a couple of days. The Japanese people are busy, clean and well dressed in American styles mostly. The children are adorable. The traffic is terrific and fast! We walked along the Ginza last night – it is hot but everyone fans – and doesn’t seem to mind it. Even the men use fans. We have rooms in the new part of this hotel. Best wishes, Cornelia
Kyoto, Japan
Enjoying a Cool at the Ryogoku-bashi Bridge by Utamaro Kitagawa (1753-1806), Ukiyoe A Series of Six Pictures
The Buddha of Kamakura
1971
We have been in Nara for a week in a stunning Japanese style room. Asian Education Conference. Am deep in the writings of the Buddha.
The Buddha of Kamakura – built in 1252, is the largest Buddha next to the Buddha in Nara. IT is well known as a “handsome” Buddha.
A thousand and one images of Buddha at Sanjusangendo Hall, Kyoto. (Actually this is the temple of Rengeō-in. This main hall dates back to 1266 and these figures are standing Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy (Avalokiteshvara).)
1984
You should come to visit Japan as holiday with your wife. My family can speak English. You are welcome.
Best wishes, Yoshi
1992
Greetings
We are knee deep in pink and white cherry blossoms speeding on to Kyoto to see the last of them as well as the countryside – Erik and Kilena have an enormous modern apt., an all white kitchen I would kill for. Have done lots of sightseeing – no end to Tokyo so no rest for the weary but we are having a marvelous time. Weather is sunny in 70’s perfect. We both send love,
Gunta
The world fastest “bullet train” on the New Tokaido Line Shizuoka.
Toshogu Shrine, Nikko
September 1978
Enroute Tokyo. I just lost a day in crossing the Intl. Date Line. Maybe someday I can make it up. I doubt that I will get to Nikko to see this shrine on the trip but we have a picture of you there. Hope you got your auto insurance ok.
Love, Bill
Aerial View of Tokyo
February 1970
Singapore
We got this card on the airplane yesterday – we are Not in Tokyo. Singapore is a lovely city – we toured it today and will take a tour of the harbor in the morning. It is one of the largest shipping harbors in the world. Off to Indonesia tomorrow aft – again on JAL. Bill had a nice Bday yesterday – dinner and dancing in the eve!
Love, Mom
Tokyo – the beauty of Japan caresses you… as gently as Empress service takes you there. @1960’s
Kunimatsu Dressmaking School, 1952 Yoshio Hayakawa, Japanese, born 1917